Returning to Rome

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While the “return” to Rome was merely virtual for now, we did have a return to something closer to normal – our first small gathering with guests in far too long. To celebrate the occasion, we took inspiration from the food and apertivo culture of Rome.

The last time we were actually in Rome, we stayed at a fantastic hotel on Piazza Navona (https://www.eitchborromini.com/). The views from the rooftop bar were outstanding, as were the cocktails, particularly the variations on the negroni. We started our recent evening in virtual Rome with negronis, including the negroni bianco, along with Aperol spritzes, all served with a selection of meats, cheeses, olives, and breads. Simple nibbles set out on the counter as you serve cocktails are an easy, non-stress start to a gathering.

We also ate some outstanding meals during that last trip, and one standout was Spirito DiVino (http://www.ristorantespiritodivino.com/) where they will take you downstairs to the ancient room that is their wine cellar and on the way down the steps they tell you that each step is taking you back more than 100 years.

No post about Rome – in person or virtual – would be complete without at least a mention of artichokes. I think we ate them in some form at every single meal while there.

Getting back to virtual Rome and guests for dinner, we started with gnocchi alla Romana served on garlicy tomato sauce to cut the richness of the cheesy gnocchi. One of the great things about gnocchi alla Romana is that, unlike most pasta, you can prepare it in advance and just need to slip the pan into the oven for about 20 minutes before serving your first course.

  • Gnocchi alla Romana

Being able to do the work in advance so that I could spend time as much time as possible with people also informed the main course for this first return-to-entertaining dinner. I took inspiration from the Porcetta di vito Bernabei from the Tasting Rome cookbook for this one.

NOTE: This dish does not take a lot of work, but you do need to plan well in advance. Four things to keep in mind: (1) You need to prep the meat the night before, (2) You need to take it out of the refrigerator 2 hours before cooking, (3) It will be in the oven for at least 7 hours, (4) It needs to rest for 45 minutes after coming out of the oven.

Porcetta
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Porcetta

Course: DinnerCuisine: Roman
Servingsservings

Ingredients

  • Boneless, skin-on pork shoulder. About 7 pounds.

  • 3 Tablespoons kosher salt

  • 1 Tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

  • 6 cloves garlic, very thoroughly crushed

  • 2 Tablespoons fresh rosemary, very finely chopped

  • 1 Tablespoon red pepper flakes

Directions

  • Prepare the meat the day before you plan to serve. Score the skin in a diamond pattern (try to be consistent and be careful to not cut too deeply – some of the cuts in the photograph of mine are too deep). Turn the pork skin side down, and rub the salt into the meat.
  • Mix the black pepper, garlic, rosemary, and red pepper flakes. Spread the spice mix as evenly as possible over the salted meat.
  • Roll the meat as tightly as you can, skin side out. Tie with kitchen twine. Leave the meat uncovered in the refrigerator overnight to allow the skin to dry out. It will give off some liquid.
  • Take the pork out of the refrigerator 90 minutes to 2 hours before cooking it.
  • Heat oven to 225 F. Cook pork on a rack in a roasting pan until it is tender. This is going to take about 7 hours for a 7 pound roast.
  • When the pork is cooked to tender, increase the temperature to 500 F and cook for about 20 minutes until the skin is crispy. You’re looking for that rich brown color. The skin is going to be nice and crispy, like pork rinds at this point. Keep an eye on it, and be careful not to burn the skin.
  • Once skin is crispy, remove from oven and let rest for about 45 minutes before serving.
  • Remove kitchen twine, then slice to serve.
  • Ready for the oven
  • Served with salad of bitter greens and herbs.

As much as I love Roman cuisine, when it comes to wine pairing, I don’t follow my normal “if it grows together it goes together” view when I’m looking for a red to go with Roman dishes. Instead of turning to Lazio, we went to Tuscany for a Brunello that paired very nicely with the pork.

Wishing you all a safe, healthy return to normal with good friends and good food.