Travels in Campania

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When I think about food in Campania, the first thing that comes to mind is Neapolitan pizza. I have tried to create a perfect Neapolitan pizza at home, but while what I make is fine, it doesn’t compare to that wonderful, almost-burnt, blistered crust of true Neapolitan pizza. I first experienced that perfect pizza at L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele many years before I had a digital camera, so there are no photos of it. Below are a couple photos of my most recent attempt at home – this was a little too heavy on the cheese, there wasn’t as much puff to the crust as there should have been, and the crust is not nearly dark enough.

In addition to Naples, thoughts of Campania likely bring to mind images of the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii. I also highly recommend the lesser known, and not as filled with tourists, ancient town of Herculaneum. The guide books provide explanations of how the eruption of Vesuvius buried both towns at different rates and in different ways, so that Herculaneum is actually better preserved than Pompeii. The drive to Herculaneum, on the the other hand, is not something I recommend, particularly not for those with motion sickness – it is still well worth going, just be prepared for it. The excellent archeological museum in Naples that contains objects and mosaics from the excavations is more than worth a visit as well.

Getting back to the food, you’re probably asking, if not pizza, then what? Campania is credited with being the source of Italian Wedding Soup – “Minestra Maritata” – which apparently refers to the marriage of meat and greens. I like wedding soup with tiny meatballs and Israeli couscous, but I often lack the patience to make the meatballs as small as I would prefer. The ones pictured belo were still a bit larger than they should have been. This soup is also good without any pasta if you are watching your carbohydrate consumption.

Recipes for wedding soup typically call for escarole, but it’s not always easy to find. Spinach or other leafy greens will work. Most recently, I made a stock with parmigiano-reggiano rinds and lots of peppercorns so the stock ended up tasting a bit like caccio pepe. It gave a very nice extra dimension to the soup.

Travels in Campania
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Travels in Campania

Course: Soups

Ingredients

  • For the meatballs

  • 1 pound ground pork

  • 1/2 cup plain bread crumbs

  • 1/4 cup grated parmigiano reggiano or pecorino romano

  • 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh parsley

  • 1 egg

  • salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste (about 1/2 tsp each works for me)

  • For the soup

  • 8 cups stock of choice

  • 3 stalks celery – chopped

  • 1 large carrot – chopped

  • Extra virgin olive oil

  • 2 large bunches fresh spinach (or other greens) – cut in ribbons

  • The cooked meatballs

  • 1 cup Israeli couscous (or small pasta such as ditalini if you cannot find Israeli couscous)

Directions

  • Meatballs
  • Mix all meatball ingredients until evenly blended. Form into the smallest balls for which you have patience. Bake on lightly oiled sheet pan at 350 F for 20-35 minutes – the baking time will depend on the size.
  • For the Soup
  • Heat olive oil in stock pot over medium heat. Add the carrot and celery and cook until just lightly browned. At the stock, increase heat and bring to boil.
  • Add salt and pepper if the stock needs additional seasoning.
  • Add the cooked meatballs and spinach to the stock, bring to boil again, and add the couscous. Cook for 8-10 minutes more, until couscous is one.
  • Serve with extra cheese if desired.